Saturday, June 23, 2012

HOT! but also chilly.

If you've been reading everything we've been posting up here, you are no doubt expecting a scorching hot sweatfest when you arrive.  While it is likely to be hot in the afternoons, remember that it tends to cool down a lot at night.  If it's 90 during the day, there's still a good chance it'll get down into the 40s in the late, late night.  Remember to pack a warm layer or two!

Wildfire Craziness

As most of you probably know, things out here have been very hot and dry for the last few months.  There have been many wildfires throughout Utah and the West, including one just a couple weeks ago on Boulder Mountain, in Torrey's backyard.  While you are visiting, please be EXTREMELY careful.  It is important to be aware, especially those of you planning to camp, that there are strict restrictions on fires and fireworks.  Fires are essentially forbidden on all public land (NPS, USFS, BLM, etc.), except in fire pits in official campgrounds.  Fireworks are also banned, which is just as well because they scare the hell out of our dogs.  For the specifics, check here.

Wednesday, June 20, 2012

Torrey Farmer Market

On Saturday, from 4pm-6pm at the Robber's Roost Bookstore on Main St. in Torrey, there is a Farmer Market featuring locally grown produce and fresh-baked bread and cinnamon rolls from Mesa Farm in Caineville (just east of Capitol Reef).  Other local folks often bring things from their own gardens and orchards, as well as various art and trinkets.  A great way to spend some time and support the locals!

Live Rock n Roll at the Patio

On Saturday night, following the pizza extravaganza in the Torrey Town Park, everyone is invited to the Rim Rock Patio for an incredible night of live music.  David Williams, who is a legend in Utah and well-known throughout the West, will be performing outside in the cool desert night.  He is an extremely talented musician and songwriter, as well as a wedding guest and former bandmate to Ian in the short-lived but influential group Black Wagon.  The show is free, beer is available, and this is a great chance to experience the local nightlife.  The Rim Rock Patio is located a few miles east of Torrey on Hwy 24, on the south side of the road, next to the Rim Rock Restaurant and Hotel.  You can't miss it.

For more info on David, check this out.

Things to Do Around Torrey

Many of you are probably wondering how you will fill the hours that aren't taken up by wedding-specific activities.  Well, your troubles are over.

Hiking
The area around Torrey is an incredible place for those who like to get out and interact with the world on their feet.  Please be aware that you are a long way from home.  Cell service is spotty at best, bring LOTS of water, wear sunblock.  It is good to bring a map and understand how to use it.  Maps are available at the National Park Visitor Center, the Chuckwagon in Torrey, sometimes at the various gas stations, and at the Forest Service office in Loa.  It is likely to be very hot in the afternoons, so go early or late in the day, or head up into the higher elevations where it is cooler.  Remember that no dogs are allowed within the National Park.  Other than that, there are no rules.  A favorite thing to do is to drive until it's beautiful, then get out and walk.  There are thousands of miles of dirt roads and 2-tracks that are much nicer to walk on than drive on.  The options for hiking are limitless, but here are some of our favorites:

Capitol Gorge  Easy, flat walk into beautiful sandstone canyon.  Located at the end of the scenic drive in CRNP.  Hot!

Grand Wash  Similar to Capitol Gorge, though you have the option of walking all the way through from the scenic drive to Hwy 24 (out-and-back or car shuttle or hitchhiking required for that).  Also hot!

Pleasant Creek  Another lovely canyon, with a perennial stream flowing through it.  Not as well-marked a trail as Capitol Gorge or Grand Wash.  Follow the dirt road at the end of the scenic drive (2wd OK), past the new research station and park when you come to the creek. Walk downstream.

Pleasant Creek (Boulder Mtn.)  There is a nice system of trails and dirt roads around Pleasant Creek higher up Boulder Mountain.  These range from easy to difficult, but will generally take you through aspen and pine forests, through meadows and alongside various small creeks.  For the particularly ambitious, you could hike all the way up to Meeks Lake on the Boulder Top (the huge plateau that caps Boulder Mountain, 10,000-11,000 feet elevation) and go for a dip.  Follow Hwy 12 south towards Boulder Town, turn right just past the Wildcat Ranger Station / Visitor Info Cabin (about 25-30 minutes).  This dirt road is not recommended for 2wd, so park your rental at the signboard by the highway.  Frankly even with 4wd the road stinks.

Hell's Hole Area  There are a great many roads and trails weaving around the area known as Hell's Hole, just north of Torrey on the edge of Thousand Lakes Mtn.  Head north on Sand Creek Rd. out of Torrey and bear left after about 3/4 mile at the Forest Service sign.  This dirt road gets worse and worse the further you go and branches in many directions.  Head left to follow Sand Creek towards Hell's Hole, a crazy sandstone web of tiny canyons and drainages or head right towards Sulphur Basin and eventually up onto Thousand Lakes Mtn.  It's a long walk (or very rough drive) to get all the way up into the higher elevations.

Oak Creek  Similar to the Pleasant Creek area, there is a large network of roads and trails in the area of Oak Creek up on Boulder Mountain.  Drive south on Hwy 12 for about 35 minutes and follow the Oak Creek Rd. up from the highway or down from Oak Creek CG.  Aspen and pine forests, meadows, desert views, deer and elk, small creeks.

Navajo Knobs  A strenuous hike in CRNP that will take you on to the top of the sandstone reef itself.  Great views and many small side canyons to get lost in once you're up there.

Walking
If you're looking for a shorter, mellower outing, there are some great places to just park the car, stretch your legs and go for a short wander.

Fruita Orhcards  Located around the campground and along Hwy 24 in CRNP, the historic Fruita orchards are a lovely place to go for a stroll and maybe pick a little fruit.  The orchards are located along Sulphur Creek and the Fremont River and beneath towering red rock cliffs.  There is ample shade and you can inquire at the visitor center as to which orchards (if any) have ripe fruit--cherries and apricots are the most likely, but it's still a little early.

Fruita Petroglyphs  Located along Hwy 24 in the Park, there is a wooden boardwalk that will take you to a viewing area.  These petroglyphs (rock art) are in the neighborhood of 1000 years old and were left by the Fremont culture.

Torrey Town  Torrey town itself had a nice mix of historic, unique and astonishing buildings to look at, as well as a few art galleries and shops.  The enormous cottonwood trees along Main St. provide abundant shade, but there are no actual sidewalks so be careful along here.  Check out Gallery 24 and the Torrey Gallery, a few blocks east of the church for work by local artists.

Fishing
Though you may be in the middle of the desert, there are a lot of great places to fish if you bring along your gear.  The Fremont River holds a nice population of Rainbow and Brown trout, but the water can often be muddy or cloudy.  Be careful of private property, there's a lot of it through the valley.  Try the Bicknell Bottoms west of Torrey.  Additionally, there are an incredible amount of lakes on Boulder Mtn., almost all of which have good numbers of trout.  They can be hard to reach by car as most of the roads on the mountain are in disrepair.  Lower Bowns Reservoir is one of the easiest to reach.  Go south on Hwy 12 from Torrey about 30 minutes and head left when you see the signs for Lower Bowns (just past Wildcat Guard Station).  The road is generally not too bad, but remember you can always park and walk.  The best thing to do is grab a map of the Boulder, pick a lake and go for it.  A little further drive are Forsyth and Mill Meadow Reservoirs, and UM Creek and the Fremont River where they enter and exit these reservoirs.  They are located north of the town of Fremont.  Go north on Hwy 72 out of Loa, pass through Fremont, and then follow the signs.  If you want some more specifics, ask Ian, and he'll try to point you in a direction.

Scenic Drives
If the idea of getting out of an air-conditioned car seems terrifying or you're too hung over to contemplate walking, there is a wealth of scenic loops you could drive.  These tend to take you a long way from town--bring plenty of water and snacks and a map.  Cell coverage is often non-existent so be prepared.

Torrey > Highway 12 > Boulder Town > Burr Trail > Notom Road > Hwy 24 > Torrey
Possibly one of the most beautiful drives on earth.  Head south on 12 from Torrey and go up and over Boulder Mtn.  Incredible views of red rock desert and the Henry Mountains, as well as the La Sal and Abajo Mtns. on clear days.  Then down to Boulder town and left on the Burr Trail through Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument.  Up and over the Waterpocket Fold, then left on Notom Rd. and north through Capitol Reef to Hwy. 24.  Left again, winding along the Fremont River back to Torrey.  Mountains, canyons, desert, river, small towns, etc.  This will take more or less all day, but is OK in a 2wd.  Stop at the Burr Trail Grill in Boulder for lunch.

Torrey > Hwy 12 > Boulder > Hell's Backbone Rd. > Awapa Plateau > Bicknell > Hwy 24
You'll probably want 4wd for this one, although it's not definitely necessary.  Follow Hwy 12 over the Boulder and through Boulder Town.  A few miles south of town, head right on the Salt Gulch / Hell's Backbone Rd.  This will take you out along the south side of Boulder Mountain, where you will pass some amazing sandstone formations.  Take a right on FS Rd. # 0145 towards Bicknell and go north through pine forest and sagebrush desert along the west side of Boulder Mt. and the Awapa Plateau.  Stay on this road all the way back to Bicknell and Hwy 24.  Take a right on 24 to return to Torrey.  This is another all day adventure.

Swimming
It's going to be HOT!  Here are a couple swimming holes for the adventurous.

Fremont River  Though we make no claims as to the cleanliness of the water, a dip in the Fremont can make a scorching-hot afternoon a whole lot nicer.  Feel free to wade in anywhere that's not private property.  A good place with many deeper holes is east of Hwy 12.  Follow Hwy 12 south out of Torrey for a few miles.  Park in the pull out on the left when you get to the river.  Follow the trail east along the river or just make your own way.

Lower Bowns Reservoir  Located on the east slope of Boulder Mountain, this is a nice sized lake that isn't too cold and fairly easy to get to.  Follow 12 south from Torrey about 25-30 minutes.  Just after Wildcat Guard station turn left where you see the signs for Lower Bowns.  This road is usually in pretty good shape.  Drive all the way to the reservoir or as far as you like and walk the rest of the way.

Boulder Mtn. Lakes  There are hundreds of lakes on Boulder Mountain, all cold and all refreshing on a hot day.  Grab a map and plan a short hike to one for a swim.  Suggestions for shorter hike possibilities: Pine Creek Lake, Long Lake, Steep Creek Lake, or Horseshoe Lake on the Boulder Top.






Torrey Area Services and Amenities

As many of you may know or may have guessed, Torrey is a small town with limited services and amenities.  For this reason, you may want to stock up on some stuff before you leave Salt Lake or wherever else you may be traveling from.

Groceries
Limited groceries are available at the ChuckWagon General Store on Main St. in Torrey.  They carry canned goods, milk/juice/eggs/bread, some produce and deli items.  There is a wider selection at Food Town in Loa (about twenty minutes west).  Food Town is a full grocery store, although not necessarily by the standards that you are used to (think small, early-80's-era Price Chopper/Kroger/A&P).  If you require specialty items, organic produce, kombucha, fancy cheese, fresh fish, etc., you'll want to take care of this in Salt Lake.  In Salt Lake, try Whole Foods (700East, Between 500South and 600South) or Smith's Marketplace (500East, Between 400South and 500South).

Liquor
There is a liquor store in Bicknell (about ten minutes west of Torrey) that has a small but inclusive selection of liquor, full-strength beer (grocery store and gas station beer in Utah is 3.2% alcohol), and low-end wine.  They are open 12pm-7pm, Tuesday through Saturday.  In Salt Lake, try the Wine Store (300East, between 200South and 300South) for great selection of wine, and higher-end beer and liquor, or any state liquor store for a general selection of whatever you need (205West 400South, or 402 6th Ave., or 1625 South 900 West).  The Salt Lake stores have generally longer hours and are open Mondays.

Outdoor Gear/Supplies
There is a small outfitter located next to the Chevron at the junction of Hwy 24 and Hwy 12 in Torrey.  Basic supplies are also available at Food Town and the IFA on Main St. in Loa, as well as at the ChuckWagon in Torrey.  For better prices and a better chance of finding what you need, take care of this in Salt Lake.  Kirkham's is a locally-owned outfitter located  at 3125 South State St.  Also you could try REI (3285 East 3300 South, just off I-215).

Restaurants
Obviously you can't stock up on this in the big city.  Luckily, there are some good choices.


Rim Rock Restaurant  Amazing views and delicious food with huge portions.  Steaks, chicken, burger, fish, pasta.  American comfort food.  Everything is home-made.  Ian's gracious employer for many years.  $15-30.  Located a few miles east of Torrey on Hwy 24, south side of the road.

Rim Rock Patio  Located next to the Rim Rock Restaurant.  Pizza, sandwiches, beer, live music.  Bar-like.  Darts, horseshoes, disc golf.  $10-20.

Cafe Diablo  Upscale southwestern cuisine and HUGE tequila selection.  Very impressive food, big portions, lovely patio.  $15-30.  Located on the south side of Hwy 24 on the western edge of Torrey, with a large neon sign, across from the Sand Creek RV Park.

La Cueva Mexican Restaurant  Basic Mexican food, tacos, burritos, enchiladas.  Home-made hot sauces (ask for them).  It will fill you up.  $10-20.  Located adjacent to the Sinclair gas station east of Torrey.

ChuckWagon General Store  There is a deli counter in the back of the Chucker that makes sandwiches, Mexican food and pizza.  The sandwiches are a nice option for lunch.  As for the rest, you're on your own.  $7-15.

Slacker's, Chillz/Red Cliffs  Basic greasy drive-up burger joints.  Sometimes great, sometimes not, but fairly cheap and fast and easy.  Located across from one another on Hwy 24 on the east side of Torrey.

The Country Cafe  This is the only restaurant we're mentioning outside of Torrey, so you know it's got to be good.  Located on Hwy 24, on the west side of Loa, this is classic small town Utah diner-style food.  It's greasy and usually delicious, there is incredible artwork on the walls and usually a great selection of locals at the counter.  Try the BLT Bird with curly fries.  It will change your life.  And you will smell like the Cafe for the rest of the day.  $7-15.

Coffee Shops
Robber's Roost Books and Coffee  Located on the south side of Hwy 24 in Torrey.  Espresso and coffee, good selection of books about the area, local art.  A cool building with really nice outdoor seating.

Castle Rock Coffee  Located next to the Chevron at the junction of Hwy 24 and Hwy 12 in Torrey.  Coffee, espresso, homemade chocolates, caramels, candy, snacks.  Much nicer on the inside than you would expect of a place in a gas station parking lot.


All the Driving Directions You'll Need

How Do I Get To Torrey?
Directions from Salt Lake City:
I-15 South towards Provo/Las Vegas to exit 188 (Scipio/US-50E).
Left off the exit for about 1/2 mile, then right on US-50E/State St.
Continue through beautiful Scipio and stay on US-50E for about 25 miles.
Right on UT-260 towards Aurora.  Follow past the very fragrant feedlot and through the town of Aurora (about 4 miles).
Stay left at the Y at the end of town to stay on UT-260.
Right on UT-24E.
After about 2.5 miles, bear left to stay on UT-24E.  There will be signs for Capital Reef Nat'l Park.
Stay on UT-24 for about 60 miles, and you're there!

Some Tips:
The whole drive should take about 3 1/2 hours, or a little less.
Gas stations become farther apart and gas becomes generally more expensive the farther you get from Salt Lake.  Once you get to Nephi (an hour or so south of Salt Lake), your gas options are Nephi, Scipio, Loa, Bicknell, Torrey.
BEWARE OF WILDLIFE! Especially once you leave the interstate, and especially between dusk and dawn, deer, elk and cows can suddenly appear alongside and on the road.  Drive carefully.


How Do I Get To Torrey Town Park?
Torrey Park is located one block north of Highway 24, and one block east of Center St. in Torrey.  If you are heading east through town, take a left on Center St. (after the Chuckwagon General Store), go north one block and turn right on 100 North.  The Park is on your left.


How Do I Get To Cougar Ridge Ranch?
Cougar Ridge is located just south of Torrey.  Head east on Highway 24 from downtown.  Turn right on River View Rd. (the Old Dump Rd.).  This is BEFORE you get to the Highway 12 junction.  Go about 3/4 mile, turn left on Cougar Ridge Rd.  Bear right almost immediately to stay on Cougar Ridge Rd.  Follow to the end, which is the lodge, about 1/2 mile.  Here's a map.